Friday, August 21, 2009

Food Glorious Food

As I mentioned in my previous post, our time in Philadelphia hasn't always been easy. Moving 3,000 miles away from the world you know is really hard. It takes longer than you want to make friends, find the best grocery store and trade in your Best Foods for Hellman's. You rail against the edicts of No Turn On Red and No Alcohol in Grocery Stores. We went for months without anyone to turn to in a pinch, filled with the sickening feeling of being adrift in a sea where everybody knows somebody except you. Fortunately, within a week of our arrival, we gussied up and ventured downtown to introduce ourselves to a new, yet oddly familiar friend known as Gourmet Food!

How did she measure up against previous acquaintances? Philadelphia puts forth some seriously great cuisine and I'm not talking no cheesesteaks neither. (Yes, I've tried one and in my opinion, they're gross. If I want a good old fashioned gut bomb, I'll tuck into a Burgermaster Combo (sniff!) or a big slab of foie gras seared in butter. Gray meat and Cheese Whiz on a bun? Not this cowgirl.)

Before Philadelphia we lived in Portland, Oregon, the little darling of the foodie world. While we lived there, it was repeatedly touted by the New York Times as the place for fabulous food, young chefs, locally sourced produce and the rest of the trappings of a true swoon-worthy food destination. Apparently, this love fest didn't sit well with Philadelphians, as locals here felt their fair city should have been receiving these fine accolades. As someone who has experienced both towns and what they have to offer gastronomically, I can honestly say that PHL gives PDX a serious run for its money. Below are my top five favorite restaurants in Philadelphia and beyond. Of course there are plenty of other great places in town but these five I've visited numerous times and have always had a great experience overall (food, wine, ambience, service). In no particular order:

Sola
This little BYOB is in my top favorite restaurants of all time. It is located one town down the Main Line in Bryn Mawr in an unassuming strip of storefronts right on Lancaster Avenue. You wouldn't know it from standing on the sidewalk but inside they are cooking up some of the best food around. Dinner starts with an amuse bouche to prime the palate for what lies ahead. Of course, all the truly snooty Main Line ladies daintily pick off any offending micro greens before scraping the flat spoon over their perfectly capped teeth but we love them anyway, right? If the Peekytoe crab is on the menu, order it!

Little Fish
We recently celebrated our ninth wedding anniversary here. Tiny in size (maybe 10 tables tops) but the most fabulously fresh fish in Philly's Queen Village neighborhood. The menu is as small as the restaurant (5 starters, 5 mains) and the kitchen is right in the dining area. The staff have to go outside to access the basement to bring up needed supplies! But the food, oh the food. Their skate is to die for. There's always something on the menu with truffles and they usually have fresh oysters. Plus I hear the storefront used to be a big mobster hangout. So cool.

Vetri
Mario Batali asserts this may be the best Italian restaurant on the east coast and I'm not going to disagree. His love of Crocs and Gwyneth Paltrow is another issue entirely, but that's for another day. Housed in an old brownstone, the ambience and service are impeccable, and the house specialties of spinach gnocchi and foie gras pastrami? Ridiculous. If you can snag a reservation, go!

Parc
Say what you will about the Steven Starr restaurant empire but one thing you can't argue with is that with this installment someone did a damn good job reproducing a French bistro, down to the last detail. The only thing that gives it away, besides the sometimes too-big-for-their-britches clientele, is the size. It's huge! Other than that, it is as if they transported a Parisian bistro to the edge of Rittenhouse Square. What could make for a nicer leisurely lunch than a glass of Lillet Blanc followed by an omelette of fine herbes, a mixed green salad and buttered bread from Metropolitan Bakery? Looking out onto the verdant Square as a cool breeze sighs by, I can squint my eyes and just for a moment, transport myself back to Bistro "Le Pontarlier." At least until the laser-like voice of a plasticized Jersey girl barks out her order for a Cosmopolitan and a double order of fries. Sigh.

Ansill
It is with a heavy heart that I announce that this apple of our eye is, for now anyway, closed. Earlier this week we planned to indulge in David Ansill's fantastical food and drink only to find a sign on the door saying the restaurant has been shuttered for the remainder of the summer. Rumor has it this may be permanent and if this is indeed the case...where the hell am I gonna go to get my bone marrow fix, man? This is where you head for great offal in Philadephia. Good old fashioned snout to tail and everything in between cooking at this joint. Feet, ears, insides and outsides all served up in a creative and delicious way. Please don't go Ansill, come back to us! I include it here in the hope that by the time fall rolls around, they'll return victorious.

Is your mouth watering? Mine is. It's going on Friday night but no fancy prime time reservations for this chow hound this time around. I've got the best seat in the house at my favorite watering hole, my own kitchen with Chef Gus serving up a little sum sum cooked with a whole lotta love and affection.

Bon appétit!

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